All the fluids are full, I haven't added anything or done anything to her yet. Now I cannot drive it because it I know it will switch off. Ok, just got it to a shop yesterday to get the problem fixed, he drove it and said that its seems like a classic symptom of the slave cylinder being bad. If you decide to go this way these tools work for the job. Now to my question Is it possible we got a faulty slave cylinder from orileys? I do not have a slide hammer and do not know how else to get it out.
This is a safety issue, if it happens at the wrong time someone could get hurt or the engine will just blow up!. The transmission will shift from one gear than not go into gear leaving vehicle on of gear and without forward motion. It looks exactly the same, granted I have no way of measuring how much the the pressure plate is exactly being depressed. You have to hold the oilier flex line tightly into the hole but you will feel it filling the master cylinder each time your helper releases the clutch. I bought a brand new slave sylinder and bleed it hopefully the right way and still spent work. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer, however the manufacturer was notified. When the truck is off you can row from gear to gear no problem.
Turned out to be a messed up pilot bearing inside the flywheel. I cut the ignition and started again, was able to put it into 1st Gear and made it home by coasting getting into any of the other Gears was just as difficult, fortunately I was in the neighborhood. It was inconsistent and not always a problem. I have the part which clearly shows heat caused the failure. Then I was stopped, engine running, foot on clutch and brake, in neutral. When I started it like that I could shift all the gears with it running and pressing and releasing the clutch.
The truck only has 48,000 miles on it. I only use my truck on rough roads about 5% of the time. I have 95 ranger v6 3. Took it onto the highway shifting gears fine. The indicator would also not stop on the gear that the truck was in. It looks exactly the same, granted I have no way of measuring how much the the pressure plate is exactly being depressed. This has and is an on going issue since the vehicle was new.
My truck is a 1997 Mazda B2300 with the 2. You did not list the year of your ranger…and this makes quite a difference. The clutch disk is installed correctly, facing the correct way. If I buy a new clutch, does it come with a throw-out bearing? I found this method so effective that addition bleeding was not needed to get the clutch working although I would recommended following up with it anyway to purge the old fluid. Consumer states vehicle moved back quickly in fast short spurts and then gave way rolling quickly backward, after that is stalled and was difficult to restart. I saw on another thread a similar problem and the owner said his mechanic replaced the safety master switch and that fixed it - is that possible? I have tried to bleed out these systems and it can take hours and hours of frustrating failure. When I took the transmission and removed the clutch, little needle bearings started dropping.
It started occurring just this last Friday or Saturday 2011-06-24 or 2011-06-25. There are no cracks in the lines that would cause a leak. I have done that, regardless of the truck running or not the slave provides pressure against the pressure plate when the clutch is pushed in. Be careful not to do the clutch testing in a busy area. The one way of checking it is to start the car after engaging the gear and clutch. Ok, so when you remove the line from the slave you have a firm petal?? Would it be relatively easy to do and top up myself? Pedal still had pressure but gears wear being sticky.
I know it does but cars do weird things sometimes is the pressure plate even moving when you push the pedal Yes, it is pushing in the fingers on the pressure plate. That way it leaves nothing to go wrong. Tsukasa Azuma is an awesome car blogger of Car From Japan. I tried bleeding numerous ways and times, sometimes it seemed to get better?!?! The failure mileage was 181,000 and the current mileage was 181,760. All the mechanics that I took it too do not seem to understand what I am saying and just do a temporary fix and rip me off. Especially when hot and in use the gears would it take and then the clutch pedal would be too hard. Are there any other details I should provide? Fortunately, I began using the parking brake before I figured out what the problem was.
Got everything put back together. One part we did not replace was the crankshaft needle bearing. Thanks for the help I am giving Cygrads a hand with the truck. The problem could be the result of a stubborn clutch refusing to disengage. It's not a permanent fix, but it may let you limp it around for a bit.