The engine uses 15W - 40. If not stuck securely this fairing gasket can come adrift and work its way down to the propeller. The rubber seal between the saildrive and hull should be replaced every 7 years according to Volvo Penta. We took our complete unit home and worked on it on a bench in a civilised manner. I do hope it's not 80-90.
We then used an old cover as a template and cut out four new covers, which we latter stuck to the hull with sikaflex and a few small counter sunk screws. I'm wondering whether the engine service guys used the latter? Dismantling the lower element of the sail drive leg was straight forward — remove the propeller, anode and unscrew two bolts. The inclusion of items on this page does not infer that these items are genuine Volvo Penta saildrive spares. Propeller options varied with each application, from two or three blade propellers to those with folding propeller blade. Obviously, they didn't use normal oil as required.
Also when you pull out the dip stick when room temp does the oil stay on it or drips off or runs off. We hope this page will help you; if you do not see what you are looking for, please. If that doesn't help contact the one that changed the oil, or take a sample and get it tested. There used to be all sorts of horror stories when Mobil 1 first came on the scene about mixing synthetics and petroleum motor oils resulting in significant foaming and completely breakdown of the lubrication system. However, I discovered last week that the engine company that serviced the engine used a tranny oil that is green in color. I was hoping the manual would describe the internal leg casting and drive train arrangement to determine if 1 the pencil would cause a catastrophic failure, or 2 would be wedged somewhere out of harms way, or 3 would be chomped up by the gears allowing the debris removed with frequent oil changes or 4 I should confess all to Volvo Penta. Whatever lube they used is green, almost fluorescent.
The users manual notes that you need to use engine oil in the tranny I have a Volvo 2002 engine. The 120S saildrive the model that I have should use the same viscosity, according to the manual. We found the most difficult part of the job was repositioning the seal over the hull aperture while trying to push the saildrive and the engine back together. The 120S saildrive the model that I have should use the same viscosity, according to the manual. Today I did something silly and dropped a pencil down the dipstick hole of the saildrive :- Why did I do this? Removed one our twin sail drives over the weekend, planning to replace all bearings and seals as will as the spline coupling. However, I discovered last week that the engine company that serviced the engine used a tranny oil that is green in color.
Then feel the oil between your fingers. They are well-known for their remarkable power and quiet operation. Cursing loudly did seem to help! I have the same tranny and it should be regular 15W-40 engine oil. But we really liked the with their unique overdrive feature, which improves fuel efficiency when motor sailing. Remember not to use ordinary copper-based antifoul on either the saildrive leg or the fairing gasket.
The manuals on this page are provided for public information and education and can be downloaded for free. Just worried about the trapped fluid I can't suck out and whether it will do bad things mixed with 15W-40. Every item is developed and manufactured by Volvo Penta — for a perfect match and optimal performance. We also found enough mussels for a nice appetiser living inside ours, which took some time to clean out. I have a Volvo 120S saildrive. Whatever lube they used is green, almost fluorescent. Supplies we have a wide range of replacement spare parts for the Volvo 120C and 120S Saildrive units including anodes, seals, gaskets, bearings and belts.
I'll probably siphon out the fluid and refill with engine oil per the manual but I need to know whether mixing oil and whatever is in there I suspect that there will be some trapped fluids even after I siphon out what's in there now will damage the tranny. Thanks for sharing your experience. Obviously, they didn't use normal oil as required. Then check your engine oil and see if it smells, and feels the same. Try to position the new seal so that the embossed year is facing to port i. For a various reasons, I cannot contact the folks that serviced the engine and the tranny early last year.
Obviously, they didn't use normal oil as required. And sometimes if the oil is a non detergent oil the factory will put a dye in it so you can read the dip stick or the sight glass better. Different grades of oil will smell different. I do hope it's not 80-90. Each kit has been carefully crafted and designed to easily integrate into an existing engine bed, regardless of which engine brand you are currently running.